Tuesday, August 31, 2010
No Time to Breathe
Monday, August 30, 2010
Office Politics
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Shopping for Violins
Saturday, August 28, 2010
Auditions and Baltimore
Again, I got started too early getting to the airport, perhaps not a bad habit. I suppose that after all the time in South America, I am trained to be everywhere early. I have almost missed too many flights. I had checked online for the 747 bus, which happened to stop just a block away. The alarm went off at 7, I showered and changed in the increasingly smelly coed bathroom, and was ready to go before 8. Tara walked with me in the fresh but sunny morning to wait and say goodbye. I was at Dorval a little after 8, checking in and waiting a little later, and primed after a couple coffees and a muffin. Toronto was inefficient, but again I had plenty of time to sit and wonder. Once again, everything is so efficient and organized, it is almost too good to be true.
It was wonderful to be in Montreal again and wander around rediscovering places with Tara. I loved the years I spent there, and found all my old haunts intact and many new areas to explore. The Ste Catherine Ouest corner of downtown is full of shops, Crescent is still hopping with bars and restaurants and a race car festival closing off the street to cars for the weekend, McGill is bigger and more developed, St Laurent remains funky and has all sorts of intriguing character filled sections, St Denis is wild and energetic and Old Montreal is serene and stately. The port is transformed and I will have to return for a visit. I hope that Tara will find the city just as exciting as I do. She is offended by the French, which is entirely different than French French. It is entirely understandable after you listen some more, but she finds the twang unattractive. She felt that the locals were unfriendly when she spoke English, but perhaps because I am older, they are patient and kind with me.
I look forward to my next visit, which I hope is as soon as possible, perhaps with Maya.
Travel was smooth and easy and when I arrived in Baltimore. Maya and Eric were at Peabody preparing for her audition, so I took the Light Rail to Howard Street and Monument and walked to the music school to meet them for dinner. Maya was full of delightful news about her week, fearful about her audition, but happy to be done for the day. We celebrated with 'Cold Stone Creamery' ice cream (my favourite is 'Coffee Lover's Delight' which is full of almonds and Heath Bar Crunch) and card games on my bed and Bgrade movies on TV. Home again.
Friday, August 27, 2010
Montreal Film Festival
Oh my! Tara wanted to get moving immediately upon waking, and I took too long to be ready and she was irritable and lashed out and I realized my error in staying with her. I found myself in tears and ready to walk out, but pulled myself together and stayed steady and somehow we moved on.
We decided to make today a search for good coffee. I realized too late that the coffee we are looking for does not exist here. It is the same in Paris and in truth anywhere but Italy. My husband and mother are both astonished at my fussiness about coffee. I am always searching and always disappointed that I cannot find the kind of coffee one can encounter anywhere in Italy, from the train station to the autostrada to the bar on the corner etc. The espresso is foamy and wholebodied and easy to drink. I gave up on coffee in Ecuador and accustomed myself to the consistently 'not quite right' taste, and in fact lost my addiction to coffee over the year. I truly believe coffee is optional for me now. The 'Myriad Cafe' close to Tara's apartment was the best so far, the Cafe Depot up the street was horrid, the Nezpresso we tried yesterday afternoon on Crescent Street (lots of machines on sale upstairs after you tasted the coffee downstairs) was not quite right (I only tried a small sip because it was late in the day and I cannot drink coffee past noon if I want to sleep the night) and the Starbucks although consistent is not quite the cappuccino/espresso we yearn for.
So today was coffee tasting day and we prepared ourselves by looking online for the 'best coffee places in Montreal'. Tara compiled a list and we set off. The first choice was close by and 'closed for renovation' (Kafein on Bishop). 'Nocochi' on Mackay had great Middle Eastern desserts and candy and the barista tried to please us but the coffee did not pass. He suggested a Cafe down the street (without a name but next door to where Tara bought her phone) where the cappuccinos we ordered turned out to be lattes and tolerable but too milky for my taste. Our barista was a young girl from Venezuela. There were two places on Crescent (Benelo and Testa Rossa) which we skipped, and headed for Cafe Art and Java on University and President Kennedy, where the coffee had an odd taste, which was replicated at Cafe Veritas on St. Laurent and Notre Dame in Old Montreal (which had a great smoothie I'd come back for). We walked through tiny Chinatown on our way to Old Montreal, which is unchanged (and just as small) as it was 30 years ago.
I was all 'coffeed out' and could not finish the last cappuccino. Of course if it was 'right' it would have been easy, but we had truly not found a good cup of coffee and there are more places to visit before we are done with our search. My suspicion is that the coffee here is simply different than what we are accustomed to in Italy and Tara will have to adjust to the tastes here, or use her little coffee maker at home with her Italian coffee beans and warmed up milk and do it as my grandmother used to at her home in Sterzing/Vipiteno when I was growing up. We will all ahve to fly to Italy for a good cappuccino. Good excuse to fly five thousand miles.
I wanted to spend more time in Old Montreal. The sun was brilliant and the old stones beckoned, and my heart stayed here some time ago, but Tara was ready to move on. She had seen nothing of the Latin quarter, so we walked up St. Denis for miles and miles. She wanted to eat Thai food, but by the time we decided to look for lunch, the kitchens were closed. She shopped in the boutiques along the way, and found a great pot shaped and coloured like a pepper (it looked like a tomato to me) to warm up milk for coffee. St. Denis is a happening place, but I was also interested in the Montreal film festival (which I used to go to regularly when I lived here) so we picked up programs and when we finally stopped to eat at a Middle Eastern restaurant in front of the Odeon Theatre where many of the films were playing, I finally chose some films to see. I had encouraged Tara to join the 'Theatre frosh' event of the evening, the plan being to visit all the theatres on campus (she will audition for roles at the events). I was delighted that it was so easy to go to the ticket booth and purchase billets for two films at 5 and 7. I was thinking of getting a third film for 9, but decided that two was enough. Dinner was exquisite. I will have to try to remember the name of the place (Couscous?) and return for amazing desserts. Montreal is certainly a place for FOOD, there are so many restaurants of all sorts and flavours and styles and atmospheres. So much to explore!
The first film was Czech and a review of the life of a mother and her two daughters from 1967 to 1977. The best part was the presence of the director who presented her first movie at the film festival 20 years ago when she won the best first film feature. The subtitles were in English so I could understand it. The 'Uomo Nero' was in Italian with French subtitles, but I did not have to read them, I was delighted to understand it all. I luxuriated in everything Italian. Tara is struggling being away from Italy, and I feel that way every time I am reminded of Italy. I manage to visit Italy almost every year (not yet in 2010), and my heart stays there, so I understand how she feels. Of course I am afraid at any moment that she will 'bolt' and return to Italy to stay, not that I object entirely, but I do believe she needs to acquire a college education. Of course I am not sure she will be employable after two years of acting and two more years of 'cultural studies' which is watching and critiquing film, but it sounds like a fun education. Perhaps I am envious that she can study such flighty things, but it is easier to stomach when the bill is not $50, 000 a year. I remember working intensely at university, and not having alot of free time, but studying today appears so much more relaxed. Students have big chunks of time free to play and study and relax. When I was in school it was 8 to 5 classes with a break for lunch and studying in the evening and weekends. It was intense.
The movies and the atmosphere at the cinema were 'electric, but when I walked out of the theatre, St Denis was packed with revelers and I did not want to leave. Tara had done her theatre frosh event and was communing with her residence mates, so I walked the length of St. Catherine, passing a huge outdoor screen presenting 'The Shining' which is still too scary for me to watch. I felt entirely safe walking the distance to Tara's place, where she met me to let me in and then joined her mates. I was glad that she was being social and making connections in this new place. I am crossing my fingers that she will find her 'niche' and feel at home here. It is too painful to always wish to be elsewhere. I have experienced that many times in my life and it keeps me from appreciating the place I am in. I have always wanted to live in Italy, but I have not, and I try to be happy where I am, but I am not always good at that. I understand Tara and her feelings, but I hope that Montreal will turn out to be wonderful for her. I imagined her presenting her first feature film at the World Film Festival and feeling good about her time here.
Thursday, August 26, 2010
I Love Montreal
Tara slept at my hotel last night, but was up early this morning with a list of things to do. She left unshowered and I took my time getting ready. I had not booked a room after two nights, thinking I would join Tara in her place. I felt disconnected from her and thought we would be closer if I stayed with her, knowing I could always find another place if necessary. I did not realize that I was being presumptuous or naive or incurably optimistic.
I packed my bags and checked out and chose to walk up the hill to her place. My bag has rollers and I had little in it, but the walk was long and arduous, perhaps because my feet were still tender and the sandals I opted to wear had a heel and were not a good choice. I walked almost all the way and then collapsed at a Starbucks near her place. She was agitated that I was taking so long and met me at the place. After dropping off the bag, we tried another coffee place near her apartment called 'Cafe Depot' where the cappuccino was absolutely undrinkable. There was a cellphone office nearby where she decided on a cellphone plan and purchased her cellphone, a great relief for her. One more check off her list.
We were late for her appointment at the Biology building to discuss her psychology minor. We could not find the building (I realized only too late where it was) and gave up. She was particularly irritable at that point, so I did my best to keep quiet and not complain about my miserable feet. She suggested we trade shoes and I took her flipflops and she looked very sophisticated in my sandals. We headed back to the passport office (kilometers away) and applied for her passport. I am impressed at how organized and efficient everything is here, so different from Ecuador and far better than any government office in the US too. I was relieved that Tara is taking care of these very basic things that seemed too much for her when I had talked to her over the phone. It seems that so much energy goes into the decisions about cellphones, getting a SIN and passport, choosing a bank (still to be done) etc. I guess my job here is to ensure that these tasks are taken care of.
We both had a yen for a burger and rushed to eat at O'burger on University, where we had seen a big crowd gather at noon on our way to the passport office. There were no queues when we arrived, and we both scarfed down our six ounce Angus beef burgers with gusto. It began to rain cats and dogs at the end of our meal, so we scurried inside to avoid the downpour. Tara had a meeting to discuss transfer credits at 2:00, so she left me, and after more wandering through the myriad of shops in every direction, I decided to visit the Museum of Fine Arts on Sherbrooke. It has grown since I lived here, and I remember being stuck at the north side last time with Maya, so I focussed on the more modern section on the other side of Sherbrooke this time, with a Napoleon wing and paintings from the Middle Ages to the 19th Century. There was a 'Miles Davis' exhibit too, which was $15 to enter, so I passed on it. Tara called to join me a few hours later and she ended up on the north side confused about where I was and how to get to the fourth floor which did not exist in the building she was in I finally had to leave the exhibit and exit the building to find her and drag her back to the section I was in. The museum closed at 5, but there was a 'frosh' event at 6, which I encouraged her to participate in. Somehow we missed the group of students, and Tara needed another coffee. We tried 'Nezpresso' , which is partly cafe and partly a store for 'nezpresso' machines, but the coffee did not pass the taste test. Tara wanted to pursue some 'retail therapy', so I tagged along behind her. We bought her first groceries at the Greek place near her apartment, and snacked on hummus and pita bread and nutella for dinner.
It may have been an error to stay with her. It was tight and Tara slept on a mattress on the floor. I was comfortable and slept well, but the room is meant for one, not two, and I had invaded her space.
August 25 Exploring Montreal
I was tired and spent after all the emotion of the day before and slept soundly until 8. Tara and I had agreed to meet at the front of the Arts building at 10. I arrived a little early and did not recognize her as she walked up the hill a few minutes late. She is bigger, taller, older, and her hair is dyed darker than the bleached blonde look of the past year, and she feels unfamiliar and not quite familiar. I had no agenda for the day, and planned to devote my time to her and her needs. She had a list of things to attend to. For one thing, making a decision about her apartment was crucial. She had chosen it sight unseen from Italy and had made all the arrangements from afar. It is more expensive than other options, but her father and I are not complaining about expenses, because the year will be so affordable anyway. The place is small but a convenient location near Concordia University and ten minutes from McGill. She changed immediately from the first place assigned to her, to a room a few doors down with more light. Bathrooms are shared and there is a large common room and kitchen where the 19 students from several different programs get together and commune. The attractive part is the expectation of social connections; Tara does not want to be isolated and alone.
We decided to look for good coffee near her place. After a year in Italy, that would prove to be a challenge. There are several coffee places nearby. I had already tried Starbucks in several locations, and the cappucino there is palatable but not Italian, so we had our breakfast at Cafe Myriad up the street and it was okay but not quite perfect. She liked her vegan muffin and my carrot muffin was yummy. Next on the agenda was a decision about a cellphone. There had been two booths on campus competing for her attention. She did not want to commit to a two or three year contract, so that limited her options. We spent a considerable amount of time visiting every cellphone kiosk around. There are malls on every street here, designed for the long cold winters when everyone stays underground, so shops and restaurants and food courts and cafes are plenty. I wandered after Tara and her list of wishes. Decisions, decisions.
I had developed horrendous blisters yesterday wearing new clogs that were not broken in (silly me). Tara convinced me to pop the blisters last night (disgusting with tweezers as my only tool), and I changed my shoes this morning, but walking was painful nevertheless. I noticed that I complained too much, and sounded like an old woman, which I suppose I am, (but I do not feel that way inside). I sounded so much like my mother. I walked long distances anyway, and that aggravated my agonized feet.
We had visited the tuition payment office yesterday, where we learned that Tara not only would be eligible for in-Canada tuition ( I brought her Canadian citizenship card), but moving to Quebec for her first Canadian residence may make her eligible for in-provingce tuition rates. Of course, Johns Hopkins will likely pay for her tuition anyway, so all of this was good news. We walked the miles down Rene Levesque Boulevard (new name for an old street, I cannot remember what it was called before) to the government office where she was able to apply for a social insurance number and get her application for a passport. The offices were cool and neat and organized and inviting, so astonishingly different from Ecuador or Italy or even the United States, which is far more chaotic than I imagined and gets more chaotic with time.
Our next destination was Little Italy, which we had failed to reach yesterday. We took the metro this time, which was easy and direct (but costly at $2.75 a trip), and arrived in a very small version of Italy which appeared to be a disappointment to Tara. The grocery store was amazing however, with every possible product from all over Italy. She bought a coffee maker and coffee and olive oil and balsamic vinegar and some cantuccini and a small panettone. We found a place to eat, where it was too cold to sit on the sidewalk, and shared a wonderful foccacia/pizza with fresh tomatoes, basil, and parmesan, so very delicious. Montreal is known for great food, and our gourmet experiences have attested to that. The coffee was not quite right. I could not resist a gelato of nocciola and pistaccio, and was surprised that Tara did not indulge too.
Our walk back down St Laurent was not as long as the walk up yesterday. We passed our Indian restaurant and then turned toward Mont Royal park, where bikers and strollers and ballplayers were out and about. Near the McGill stadium we saw dozens of frosh making noise and I urged Tara to join, but she demurred. The new students are all over town making noise and drinking and carousing, and Tara although a new student here is not a first year, so she is not participating.
Decisions about cellphones continued to be a theme. We stopped at the dollar store and Tara chose all sorts of items to decorate her apartment. Shopping is king here in downtown Montreal, and there are sales everywhere. Tara likes to shop ('retail therapy') and the possibilities are endless.
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Back in Montreal
I fell asleep at 1:30 in the morning and was woken up by my alarm at 3:30. I was packed and ready to go in minutes, and Eric carried Maya to the car cuddled in her blanket. I placed her head in my lap and stayed close to her as we drove through the dark and quiet streets to the airport. It was far too early (why do they tell you to show up two hours or more before a flight?), so while I waited for someone to man the Air Canada counter, I traded stories with another couple in line and we moved on to discuss the sorry state of public education in Maryland. There was another long wait at security, where employees gradually arrived over the next hour. There were several sleeping passengers on the couches near security, otherwise the place was dead. When finally through security, there was more waiting to board the plane. I wondered if we could have arrived fully two hours later and still make the flight. The plane was small and a little shaky. I was unconscious until Toronto, where the new airport design was no better than the former one, and interminable walks to immigration and customs and baggage claim took agonizingly long. I was relieved to finally get on the short trip to Montreal, where I found the shuttle bus for $7 for the half hour ride to central Montreal and arrived near the hotel in less than an hour. The hotel was one of those cement behemoths with 771 rooms, with jaded decor and impersonal rooms, but comfortable beds and bedding and the right price on Hotwire. My view was out to more concrete buildings behind. It was sunny and warm and the city was welcoming and energetic and I felt happy to be here.
After settling in, I packed up gifts for Tara and headed to our meeting place on McGill campus. I was apprehensive because I had not seen her for almost a year and had had limited contact with her (an attempt to give her 'space') and our interactions are not consistently pleasant. I wanted a positive interaction and wanted to be sure not to say anything that would get me into trouble. I took my time walking slowly up University and through the gates of the university. I was surprised to discover that my hotel was a straight shot to the site, and although all the way uphill, was relieved that I was relatively close to Tara's place.
I saw her at a booth shopping for cellphone plans, and although immediately recognizable, was surprised that her hair was brown and that she had tattoos that I had not seen before. I am not thrilled about tattoos and hers were primitively designed and executed, and so I did my best to say as little as I could. Our time together was a whirlwind of visits to various offices on campus to get her student ID and other tasks accomplished and then to a street fair introducing students to clubs and activities. I encouraged her to sign up for as many clubs as possible, and she was most excited about the theatre series at one of the student theatres. We checked out her residence near Concordia university (a small space with futon, desk, small kitchen area and desk, balcony, public kitchen and lounge area) and exchanged gifts and then walked up Ste Catherine s to Saint Laurent. Two policemen stopped us for jaywalking and told us next time we would get tickets. Our destination was Little Italy for groceries and cappucino. We did not realize how far it was to walk there. We passed the Museum for contemporary Art and the Symphony Hall before turning up left up St. Laurent. I discovered that the Montreal World Film Festival would start on Friday. I once attended the festival religiously, sometimes seeing eight films a day, so I was determined to check it out again. Tara is studying film, so I thought she would be equally excited about the event.
Tara wanted to have a taste of La Bella Italia, and we walked and walked along St Laurent admiring the restaurants and galleries on the way, hoping to arrive at 'St. Zotique', finally giving up on Little Italy and trying Indian food instead. Our choice was the right one, because we were both exhausted, Tara still recovering from jetlag, and my feet protesting another step. The chicken tikka masala, mango lassi and naan were delicious, but the best dish was with paneer but I do not remember the name. I will have to return to check out what we ordered.
It was getting dark as we walked rather easily back downtown, perhaps because there was a slight downhill trend. I found myself caught in a heated argument, trying to stay steady but hurt and angry all the same, but we held ourselves together as we conducted a conversation of painful subjects on our way home, threatening to destroy our time together. She feels that I abandoned her as a teenager. I tried to explain that I tried to stay out of ugly arguments for years as a way to protect both her and myself and Eric and Maya. Last year I was determined to give her the space she needs to grow up and mature and did not interfere with her decisions and her life. During the exchange I promised myself I would not say anything hurtful, but I did. I wish I knew how to control myself, but in fact keeping cool and unruffled is what hurts Tara the most. I am not sure how we let go of the disagreement, or how each of us calmed down, but there were tears and pain and then we walked down University to my hotel near the river. I expected her to stay for the night, but she walked back with the sheets and towels and pillow I brought for her and spent the night in her apartment. I was exhausted and fell asleep in silence and melted into the sheets for the night, unconscious.