Modern Art

I am sleeping in every morning, not because I want to or need to (perhaps I need to), but because I really cannot sleep at all (jetlag) and have been taking Ambien each night. Eric insists that it is not necessary to do so, but I cannot imagine sleeping without help and I do not want to ruin my time here by not sleeping. I am worried that I will be unable to sleep at all when I get home, but I usually do fine going west. I am booked for a whole day of work the morning after I arrive the evening before and the rest of the week, and I do not expect to rest until the weekend.

So days start late, since Maya and Eric also sleep in, and we are enjoying our breakfast spread. We ate all together and then walked to the Modern Art Museum. Actually, Friedrich and Karen took a cab to a small museum (Lenbach) which turned out to be closed for renovations (not to open until 2013). Eric and Maya and I walked and spent some time photographing Eric in a worshipful pose in front of a statue of 'Ohm' near the Technical University. It is significant that we are staying on Ohmstrasse, and that Eric studies electricity, which is what Ohm theorized about. Ohm is vitally important to the work that Eric does, and it is interesting that not only are we staying on Ohm Street, we also found his statue today. When we learned that the small collection Friedrich wanted to show us was closed, we debated about where to spend our day. We were close to several museums, two of which were devoted to Greece and Rome and antiquities, but in the end we chose the Modern Art museum near the Brandhorst, which Karen and I had seen the day before.

The building is massive and remarkable, with a huge central court with amazing light and huge spaces throughout. The twentieth century art collection was excellent, and I learned about all sorts of German expressionists I had never heard of. I recognized many names from my art course, which was a good start to appreciating what I saw, but I could not feel enthusiastic about Beuys at all (my teacher had been so impressed with him!). I think the best part of the museum was the architecture. A lot of the contemporary stuff was rather awful, but not as horrific as the Twombly of the Brandhorst, and after a delicious lunch in the cafe, Eric and Maya and Friedrich left for siestas and a bike ride (for Maya and Eric) and violin practice, and Karen and I continued with the rest of the collection (after we all had ice creams nearby---I had seen long lines at this ice cream shop, and decided we had to try it…interesting flavors, like lemon with basil, ginger chocolate, milk and mint).

When we had looked at every gallery in the museum, we recharged with coffee (there are coffee shops everywhere in Munich, at every corner) and walked to the other side of the Isar to look at a Jugentstil house (designed and owned by an artist name Stuck) which I liked a lot. It had all sorts of Greek and Roman reliefs. I wonder if they had been stolen from their original sites, or if the artist had bought them or copied them. There was little explanation of the pieces, so I never did figure it out. Italy and Greece influenced so many artists.

Karen had bought ballet tickets for Maya and her and Friedrich, so Eric and I found a dance performance at a dance festival and were exposed to super modern dance, which did not have a clear narrative (Eric thought it was about the internal dialogue of a man) but had interesting dancing and movement. We had beer and wurst and spargelsuppe in the downstairs of a 'bierstube' near Marienplatz. It was bizarre to see young partners in lederhosen and dirndls. This is very much a partying town, and the streets were full of people out on the town. We got home very late, and Maya was already asleep with Karen and Friedrich in their bed. We moved her without much difficulty and somehow I could not fall asleep. Eric had had a few 'Weissbier' and had no trouble at all…..I am still on East Coast time.

Bier and Wurst

Neuschwanstein

I have always wished to visit Neuschwanstein, and with Maya traveling with us, me even more so. It appeared that we would not make it today. Eric woke up early and I heard him clicking away on his computer, but Maya and I slept as long as we could before having a quiet meal in the breakfast room, very German, with cold cuts and cheese slices and 'quark' and good yoghurt with muesli. The coffee reminded me of our year in Bonn, although it is not exactly what I like; I remember that my mother always preferred the German rather than the Italian way of making coffee. Maya asked for tea, but did not appear to enjoy her herb variation. Breads of all kinds, including semmel and a very heavy thick slightly sweet loaf, along with crispbread and heavy dark grainy bread that my mother would make on her own from scratch when we were young. We were the only ones eating and it appeared that there were no other guests in our pension, but likely if there were, they woke up early and were out and about sightseeing. I wanted to catch the 8:51 train to Fussen, which is the train station nearest the castle, but I adjusted and planned for the 9:51 instead. Eric kept working on emails, and once we were out, I rushed us down a big thoroughfare to Marienplatz and to the right to the Hauptbahnhof. We missed our train, but learned that the ride was two hours!!! The tourist office tried to sell us a tour, but we decided to enjoy good espresso at Starbucks and shopped for a picnic of cheese and salami and tangerines and made it to the 10:51 and settled in for a pleasant cruise through the Bavarian countryside south to the Alps. The fields were spread out in all directions with small farmhouses here and there, and occasionally a small town along the way. The mountains suddenly appeared, grand and imposing and suddenly we were in Fussen, found our way to the bus and arrived in the tourist complex between two castles. We decided to try to visit the Hohenschwangau, the original and older castle, along with the fairytale Neuschwanstein, which was the fantastical creation of Ludwig the Second, who died at 40, mysteriously drowned with his doctor friend in the lake near Munich. He had grown up in a much older mideaval structure nearby, which had been renovated in a neoGothic style, each room with wall paintings depicting an earlier era of knights and maidens and legends.

I loved the Hohenschwangau castle, because it was lived in and warm and inviting, and I enjoyed the romantic pictures on the walls of knights performing honorable deeds, maidens loving swans and knights, kings being brave were entertaining. None of the paintings showed blood, even in the battle scenes. I imagined Ludwig growing up here, and could understand his desire to build an even more fantastical place nearby. He was removed from the throne because he spent too much money, and was declared insane, although apparently that was not true. His brother Otto was in fact totally crazy, but Ludwig is beloved because of his romantic nature and his optimism.

Neuschwanstein is entirely fantasy, each room covered with murals depicting the operatic stories of Wagner. Ludwig loved Wagner, and rejoiced in the legends. He even had a grotto created as one room (Tannhauser). The one thing I bought in the gift shop was a book about the original stories behind the operas, all of which were horribly complicated and confusing. While in the castle, I simply appreciated the romance of it all. Ludwig did not spend too much time in his dream castle, and it felt unlived in. In fact it became a museum soon after it his death, as a way to pay for the cost of building it.

It was lovely to walk around the castles and view the lakes and mountains nearby, ice and snow still covering the tops of the highest peaks. There was a lot of walking required, and unfortunately when Maya wanted to explore a lake on our way from one castle to the next, I managed to fall and twist my ankle, which swelled up massively, and left me in lots of pain, which I tried to ignore for the afternoon.

We explored as much as we could, and made it back to Fussen in time to look for dinner. The town looks very Tirolean to me, with painted stucco houses with wooden balconies and shutters, reminding me of Sterzing and my childhood. We snacked on yummy 'Doners' at a Turkish takeout and took the slow train to Munich, arriving late and not wanting to walk the 40 minutes to our pension, so had to figure out the UBahn to our place, which worked out fine. The streets near Pension Greiner were full of revelers, one bar with six huge screens displaying a soccer game, with screams of joy when the favored team scored. What a great day for us!

Munich and Castles

Negotiating a New Lease

Easter Celebration Two Days Early!

Whirlwind in New York City!

New York City in the Morning

Yahoo!!! Rome in July!

I can hardly contain my excitement!!!! I just bought my tickets to Rome for the summer. Maya and I will meet Tara in Rome and head to Sicily for two weeks!!!!!! I am not sure when we were last in Italy, probably during the year before we left for Ecuador, so it has been over two years since I have been in my most beloved country. I have never been to Sicily and am anticipating our visit with much enthusiasm. Eric and I are trying to plan to meet afterward to do something romantic for our 10th anniversary. I am stunned that we have been married ten years, through thick and thin and all sorts of challenges and we remain married. What a shock! so time to celebrate!

Running and Splat

I took the day off to spend with Maya for her Easter break, but instead became convinced during the night that I had a DVT and a pulmonary embolism ( spent all day Friday on the train from Baltimore to New York and back and Sunday from Baltimore to DC and back), so I decided to visit Patient First for a checkup (I called my OB and was told to call my internist who could not see me today and I could not face the ER) and was pleased with the speed and care I got. My EKG was fine, with a pulse of 52 and a BP of 100 over 48. The Doppler Ultrasound was benign, so the leg pain and chest pain and SOB I had at Yoga class yesterday were all manifestations of anxiety and despair.

I learned last Monday that the lease for our office space (I share with several therapists) was up in five weeks and I had to find a new office space immediately. I was horrified! But that meant that instead of spending the day with Maya for her holiday, looking for office space was most important. I left Maya home with Eric to 'chill' ( which she loves to do and never gets enough of). It turned out she had a great day fixing up her room and pursuing projects ( I bought a kit to design a house for her at MOMA and she is thrilled with it) and practiced violin and then went out with Eric to buy some fish and a tank, which she installed in the sunroom and was excited and happy to show me when I got home. She had expressed interest in going to the aquarium, but going to the fish store proved equally exciting, and it was delightful to see her so happy.

I looked at some office possibilities and then met with the other therapists in my office space to discuss options. It appears that we have a good possibility and there are further details to sort out among us, but I believe it will work out. Whew! So much stress. I want to sign the lease before we leave for Munich on Sunday. There is much renovation to do in the suite, and I want an address to give to my patients when I come back March 2.

I came home to a very happy child, who showed me each of her new fish and one blue crayfish and each had a name and a character. They are Amazon fish with an Australian crayfish, the most regal being the 'black ghost', one of the species that Eric has in his lab.

Maya did not want to go to yoga with me tonight. We had rushed home from our day in DC yesterday to participate in Sid's class in the evening and Maya was ver inspiring for the whole class, she truly is very good at yoga and puts me to shame. But it is an intense class and tough to do two days in a row. She fiddled with her fish while I sweated and stretched and once home we all had dinner together and discussed fish some more.

I realized that Maya really needed a relaxing day. I push and run all the time and drag her with me everywhere. Yesterday after her hour with her accompanist Jake, we picked up Belina and drove to DC to see the collection at the Hirschorn and the Dutch galleries at the National Gallery and the sculpture gardens, and although Maya was not too enthusiastic at first, she did appear to enjoy herself as the day progressed. But she was exhausted, especially after yoga, and wanted to do nothing for one day.

My friend Emily believes that I have some sort of odd genetics, because I sleep so little and do so much and have indefatigable energy all the time. Eric and Maya move so much more slowly, and I get frustrated with them, but perhaps they are equally frustrated with me.

The Deluge

It was raining when I awoke and rained incessantly all day long. I dread going down to the basement to watch the water pour in through the walls. Our roof was repaired in January, but the gutters are broken again and I keep reminding Eric to contact the roofers, but he forgets every day and a day like today gets me reminding him over and over again. Thankfully there is a drain in the middle of the room and it is still working, but water keeps coming. The rain lightens for a bit, then there is a sudden deluge. My raincoat was not effective, so I got quite wet each time I ventured outside. It never occurred to me to find an umbrella, perhaps hoping that if unprepared, the rain would stop.

My alarm went off far too early, after only a few hours of sleep. For Maya, her day began later than usual, so she could sleep in, which relieved me because Eric packed her into the car at midnight to pick me up at the airport last night. I had booked my mammogram appointment this morning, which is why I did not stay in New York for the night. In retrospect, how silly of me to choose such an inconvenient time. I was able to make it to my Spanish class at Hopkins, of course getting soaked on the way from the car to the classroom. I love my Spanish class; we read incredible Spanish literature and discuss what we read. Our teacher is from Argentina and one of the students just came back from three weeks in the country, so we had a slide show and Judith reminisced about Buenas Aires.

I had a few patients booked, but the rain appeared to keep them away, so I spent the time waiting going through 16000 emails and deleting whatever I could to reduce the number to 7000. I still have far more to go through, but I felt oddly satisfied with the exercise. I had promised Maya to pick up books at the downtown library (about the violin, her sixth grade project) and ran into the 'City Lit' festival, with booths in rows of local authors and their works. I got wet again when I ran back to the car in the rain. Maya was off to Emily's house for the afternoon, while I made it to a yoga class, during which I watched the rain pouring down outside.

It was the movies for the evening, 'Miral', a story about the Palestinian experience since 1947, sobering, realistic, sad. When we left the Charles Theatre, everyone was huddled at the entrance, waiting for the rain to stop, but Eric and I got soaked again on our way to the car, and from the car to Emily's to pick up Maya, and when we arrived home I checked the basement to assure myself that the rain was still seeping through the walls and collecting in the drain. Eric tells me that tomorrow no rain is predicted. It will take many days to feel dry again.

Pompeii, MOMA and Tavernier

A very long, wonderful day in New York to do anything I desired....I woke Eric up at 5:30 to catch the early train (where I caught up on sleep) and walked out of Penn station before 9 with thirteen hours of adventure ahead of me. Walking along Seventh Avenue with all the activity and energy was the perfect way to start the day. I stopped at Starbucks for espresso and the New York Times, where I heard Swedish and French and Italian and Spanish along with English. There were an extraordinary number of tourists in the city today.

I stopped at the Discovery Theatre to visit the 'Pompei exhibit', and found myself entirely absorbed, despite competing with dozens of high school students, who packed every room and seemed mildly interested. My phone did not work inside the building, so when I came out I had several messages to catch up with. Emily had called for advice about her family visit, but by the time I called her back, she was unavailable. My phone was almost dead, so called Eric to remind him of when I would arrive at the train station in Baltimore, and put it away in my pocket. It is odd not to have a phone, and there are were no payphones to be seen. I tried not to think of not having any form of communication, and enjoyed my solitude for the afternoon.

Times Square is the perfect place for people watching. There were far too many locals in shorts or bare legs, although the weather was not warm at all. New Yorkers are hardy sorts. l listened to Andean music, and checked TKTS for shows that began early enough so I could catch my train on time, it being the last train of the night. Unfortunately nothing started early, so Broadway would not be on the agenda for today. I stopped at Jamba Juice for an 'Orange Appeal' and stayed inside to drink my cold drink in an effort to warm up before venturing outside.

My purpose for the day was to get to MOMA to see the 'Abstract Expressionist' exhibit as a project of my Contemporary Art class. I enjoyed myself more than I expected, perhaps because I knew all the names of the artists and had been exposed to many of the artworks already. I took the Audioguide and listened carefully to all the comments. I am not sure that really helped me appreciate or understand what I saw, but familiarity does appear to make a difference. After several hours in the contemporary art section, I relaxed in the 19th and early 20th century, which was easy to appreciate.

The final treat at the MOMA was the design store, where I found gifts for Eric and Maya. It was still light after seven hours in the museum, so I walked to Central Park past Carnegie Hall and was entertained by the people walking and stopping and hailing cabs and bicycling and watching others in turn.

I decided I could watch a movie at the Lincoln Plaza cinema and saw the 'Princess of Montpensier', a story about a woman during the time of the religious wars in France between the Catholics and the Hugenots. It was mostly an antiwar movie, with the awakening of a young woman (slowly, painfully) along the way. I did manage to escape from the theatre in a rush, hail a cab and arrive at Penn Station in good time for my train with a Chai to warm me up. I did all my Spanish homework on the train and slept a bit, but not too much for fear of missing the Baltimore stop. Eric and Maya drove up as I walked out, Maya asleep on the back couch and Eric insisting that I had given him the wrong information about my arrival. I was feeling too good to let anything bother me.

I LOVE TO COOK!

Pilates Ballet Yoga Moving

New Camera

Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Charlotte Bronte and Jane Eyre

Cirque de Soleil

Yoga, Pilates, Art, Photography, Ballet.....

Never a Dull Moment

Red Eye to Baltimore Springtime

Camelback Mountain

I started my day early, but not too early, since I did not set an alarm and wok up when I felt like it, and it was 6:43 here, but 9:43 in Baltimore, so in fact I slept in. I walked toward Camelback mountain, which is the only elevation I could see after walking out of the hotel. I had no idea how to get to the trailhead, but kept the mountain in front of my nose, and encountered quail and rabbits on the way to the 'Cholla' trailhead. There were several hikers on the trail, and I climbed a bit, but turned around, since I had no water, nor had I told anyone where I was going, nor was I equipped with proper footwear or clothing.

It was a lovely morning, bright with sunshine and warm but hot sweltering, and it felt good to be out and get my requisite dose of Vitamin D. It was reassuring to see mountains all around, since even having walked around Scottsdale, I was overwhelmed with the flatness of everything, and missing any perception of elevation. There are in fact mountains in each direction.

I joined the meeting in my sweaty walking clothes for breakfast and a panel I paid little attention to. When I returned to my room I had to pack as well as shower and change, and I came to the talk late. I am frustrated by the lack of facts and useful information at the meeting. There are almost no physicians here, and I understand why. I questioned being here, but stayed for most of the day. When I finally could not sit any longer, I took another walk looking at the vegetation and more rabbits and quail (obviously doing well here) before another body treatment/massage (I could get used to this!).

I like the desert, but it is very very hot. I did not realize when I was walking yesterday that it was 100 degrees, so very extreme!!!! I can imagine it being oppressive and overwhelming after a while, but people here seem to like it and appreciate it. The hikers at Camelback this morning were all enthusiastic and energetic and all had ample water with them. I guess hiking at 7 AM makes perfect sense. The mall attracts most of the population. It is truly a gorgeous mall, as malls go, with great stores and nothing tacky or tasteless in it. Shopping is clearly a favourite pastime here, and evidently the locals are able to afford the best stores. There is no evidence of economic difficulties here. Scottsdale is clearly upscale, I am sure Phoenix is different. I like that everything looks so clean and crisp here, so different from Baltimore, and the East coast.

When I visit the west I am reminded that I am a westerner, and I have always been a stranger on the east coast. I wonder when I will move back, to Utah or California or British Columbia or anywhere west of the Rockies. I know I need mountains, or some sort of elevation, but I think that is the only requirement.

100 Degrees in the Shade

Our room was disappointing. I shared a kingsize bed with Sharon (we were to move to two double beds tomorrow) and she snored alot, so sleep was interrupted. Our toilet was broken and ran all night, but Sharon closed the door to the bathroom and that made it tolerable. A patient called me at 4:31, probably not realizing that I was in a timezone three hours later than Baltimore, so I lay in bed afterward without sleeping. Despite that both Sharon and I woke up late and dressed hurriedly, just in time for the conference to start.

The first few sessions were interesting, but the talks soon devolved into 'preaching to the choir', with many enthusiastic practitioners lamenting the ills of society and insurance companies and doctors. There is great need for education in eating disorders, and little convincing information or data, and I get frustrated when I hear so much not based in fact or research. I also found out when I got here that I would not get CME credits, which I had expected and I am not sure I would have gone if I had known. I guess that is why there are so few physicians here.

I finally decided to escape, and walked the length of Scottsdale, to the 'Fashion Square' mall, the 'Fifth Avenue' section and the 'Old Town'. Scottsdale is a long strip mall, with upscale shops of all sorts, the usual mall stores, but also many specialty shops and artisan malls. There is even a 'waterfront', a 'malecon' of sorts along a canal.

I did not realize how hot it was until I got back and checked out the news. It was the hottest day of the year, unseasonably hot and unexpectedly hot. I was comfortable, the walk was flat with no hills and did not take much effort. I can imagine it being oppressive, but I felt comfortable, and escaped for a breather when I could.

We were invited out for dinner with a group of clinicians involved with one of the treatment centres, and I tried a sort of Armenian pizza, which was delicious and satisfying, and visited a beautiful office complex, which made me wonder why my office is so drab and unattractive. Perhaps I will be motivated to make some changes in my office space.