Schloss Nymphenburg April 30
I am suddenly rushed and trying to decide what to do in the last couple of days in Munich. The city is full of possibilities and the lovely spring weather encourages us to stay outside in the sunshine. I was up too early and decided to take the Ubahn to Schloss Nymphenburg after breakfast. Karen had at first decided to stay behind, but suddenly she was rushing out of the Pension to join Maya and I. Eric was to remain inside all day and finish preparing for his lecture and Friedrich was not up to the walking and wandering that the day promised. The subway system is so incredibly well organized. We caught a train to Sendlinger Tor and switched to another, alit at Gern and walked along a canal full of ducks and geese and swans (they love their waterfowl) to the palace, which was the summer residence for the rulers of Bavaria.
It felt like a mini Versailles, but more relaxed and intimate. The main palace was baroque and rococo style, but with a relaxed feel in the rooms, reflecting the holiday purpose of the place. Ludwig the First loved good looking women and had all his favorite women painted and hung side by side. He had a scandalous affair with a courtesan and she, along with his wife were part of his collection of beautiful women.
We did not spend too much time in the main palace, which was not extensive, but enjoyed the gardens and the fountains and the pavilions that dotted the grounds. There was a small palace for the king's wife, another pavilion for the king to rest with a large swimming pool and delightful rooms covered in Chinese style wallpaper and wall paintings, a church designed to look like a grotto or a hermitage, greenhouses and a nearby botanical garden,a museum with all the grand carriages of the kings and photos of all the favorite horses (like the beautiful women). It took the better part of the day to wander the grounds, to try desserts at a nearby bakery (Maya loved the 'spitzbuben', while Karen chose the poppyseed cake), energize on coffee, eat lunch outside in the sunshine, to visit all the palaces. Karen had to meet Friedrich and some friends at the Chinesiches Turm in the Englisher Garten, so Maya and I took a little more time to get back to the hotel.
Eric felt he had accomplished enough, so he monitored Maya while she practiced her violin. I wandered around a bit more. The Englisher Garten was full of soccer fans in red jerseys. There was a game at 6:30 at the stadium, and revelers were drinking and celebrating before the game. An 'Umpah band' was playing, and fans were loud and joyous. Later when Maya and Eric joined me the fans were off to the stadium (their team did in fact win) and it was quieter except for the band and groups of drinkers celebrating some more.
We met at a Syrian restaurant and had wonderful Middle Eastern food. Karen tried to engage the owner in discussion about what was happening in Syria, but he did not participate and seemed reticent and perhaps far removed from his home after living in Munich for ten years. He cooked everything from scratch and fresh and it was absolutely marvelous. Karen had brought Maya here after the ballet the night before and Maya was super enthused and insistent that we return to the same restaurant for the evening. It was a remarkably good meal and much appreciated.
We will meet with family tomorrow. I have not seen these people for over thirty years and at this point am wondering why I am making contact at all, but I am also interested in how they are doing. We will take the subway to meet them at 11:30.
May Day, The First of May
We had a remarkable family day.
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